John Winsor on the primacy of doing

My friend John Winsor wrote a nice post on his blog about the primacy of doing.  Here's an excerpt:

Surfing has taught me that there is no substitution to repetitive practice… Everybody loves the image of surfing. Yet, I’ve discovered there are very few people who actually surf. Why is that? There is one simple answer: surfing is hard. I have a personal theory about surfing. It takes riding a thousand waves to become a surfer. It doesn’t matter if you catch 20 waves a day for 50 days or one wave a day for a thousand days; you just can’t get around the experience of learning the hard way.

At the end of this post, John asks, "If you want to be an innovator how will you ride a thousand waves?"